Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Hopped Up: How Travel, Trade, and Taste Made Beer a Global Commodity, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2024.

01.

实验简介

A lively history of beer and brewing traditions as globally connected commodities created through borrowing and exchange from precapitalist times to the present.

Virtually every country has a bestselling or iconic national beer brand: from Budweiser in the United States and Corona in Mexico, to Tsingtao in China and Heineken in Holland. Yet, with the sole exception of Ireland's Guinness, every label represents the same style: light, crisp, clear, Pilsner lager. The global spread of lager can be told as a story of Western cultural imperialism: a European product travels through merchants, migrants, and imperialists to upend local patterns and transform faraway consumers' tastes. But this modern beer is just as much a product of globalization, invented and reinvented around the world. While distinctive craft beers such as London Porter, India Pale Ale, and Belgian sour ales have been revived by aficionados over the past half-century, they too have globalized through the same circuits of trade, migration, and knowledge that carried lager.

Here eminent food historian Jeffrey M. Pilcher narrates the brewing traditions and contemporary production of beer across Europe, North America, Africa, Asia, and Latin America--from the fermented beverages of precapitalist societies to the present. Over the centuries, he shows, the exchange of technological advances in brewing contributed to regional divergences and convergences in beer varieties, but always in tandem with other social and cultural developments. Unique local products, often homebrewed by women, were transformed into homogenous global commodities as giant brewing factories exported their beers using new refrigeration technology, railroads, and steamships. Industrial food processing helped to recast strong flavors as a source of potential contamination, turning lager, with its clean, fresh taste, into a symbol of hygiene and civilization. Local elites demonstrated their modernity and sophistication by opting for chilled lagers over traditional beverages. These beers became so standardized that most consumers could not tell the difference between them, leading to cutthroat competition that bankrupted countless firms. Over the past half-century, the global concentration of the brewing industry has spawned a reaction among those seeking to return brewing to the local, artisanal, and communitarian roots of the premodern alehouse, but microbrewers have often been driven by the same capitalist quest for profit and expansion.

Based on a wealth of multinational archives and industry publications, Hopped Up explores not only how humans have made beer but also how consumers--from nobility and clergy in the past to those raising a pint today--have used beer to make meaning in their lives.

本书活泼报告了啤酒过头酿造传统怎么通过前成本倡导时分于今的鉴戒与交流，发展成为寰球互联的商品。

着实每个国度皆有其畅销或标志性的国民啤酒品牌：从好意思国的百威到墨西哥的科罗娜，从中国的青岛啤酒到荷兰的喜力。联系词，除了爱尔兰的健力士，总共品牌皆代表着兼并种作风：清淡、泄漏、透明的皮尔森拉格啤酒。 拉格啤酒的寰球传播不错被刻画为西方文化帝国倡导的故事：一种欧洲产物通过商东说念主、侨民和帝国倡导者的传播，颠覆了当地口头并调动了远处销耗者的口味。但这种现代啤酒相通是寰球化的产物，辞宇宙各地束缚翻新与再翻新。诚然伦敦波特啤酒、印度浅色艾尔啤酒和比利时酸艾尔等具有特点的精酿啤酒在夙昔半个世纪里被啤酒心疼者从头回话，但它们也通过与拉格啤酒换取的贸易、挪动和学问传播渠说念收尾了寰球化。

有名食物史学家杰弗里·M·皮尔彻在本书中叙述了 欧洲、北好意思、非洲、亚洲和拉丁好意思洲的啤酒酿造传统和现代分娩情况——从前成本倡导社会的发酵饮料一直到现在。数个世纪以来，他展示了 酿造本事跳跃的交流怎么促进了啤酒品种的地区性互异与趋同，但这经久与其他社会文化发展互相交汇。独到的场地产物，每每由女性在家庭中酿造，跟着大型啤酒厂行使新的制冷本事、铁路和汽船出口其产物，冷静震动为同质化的寰球商品。工业食物加工助推了东说念主们将浓烈滋味视作潜在浑浊源的不雅念震动，使簇新爽口的拉格啤酒成为卫生与端淑的标志。当地精英阶级通过聘请冰镇拉格啤酒而非传统饮品来展示其现代性与良好回味。这些啤酒变得如斯程序化，甚至于大多数销耗者无法分辩它们之间的互异，导致强烈的竞争使无数企业停业。在夙昔半个世纪里，啤酒行业的寰球汇集化催生了一种响应， 一些东说念主试图将酿造业总结到前现代酒馆的场地性、工艺性和社群性根源，但袖珍酿酒商每每也被换取的成本倡导利润追乞降扩展逸想所初始。

基于大皆跨国档案和行业出书物的筹谋，《跃动的啤酒》不仅议论了东说念主类怎么酿造啤酒，还议论了销耗者——从夙昔的贵族和神职东说念主员到今天碰杯痛饮的东说念主们——怎么行使啤酒来为我方的生涯赋予真谛真谛。

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指摘

Alcohol-and especially beer-has been at the center of human civilization from its very beginning. This entertaining, informative book uses beer as a powerful lens through which to view various historical trends over recent centuries, especially globalization and the backlash against it. Highly recommended.

—Edward Slingerland, Author of Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Jeffrey Pilcher takes readers on an encyclopedic beer crawl around the globe and across many centuries. Even if you think you 'know' beer, you will likely find a surprise on every page. A tour de force.

—Maureen Ogle, Author of Ambitious Brew: A History of American Beer

There are few products whose history can be traced hand-in-hand with that of civilization on this planet. Beer, then, is quite unique. And there are few authors who have been able to convincingly and authoritatively detail the evolution of beer and brewing from the ancient Fertile Crescent to the complexities of the brewing business in these times of dramatic change. Pilcher's book is a triumph.

—Charlie Bamforth, Senior Quality Advisor, Sierra Nevada Brewing Company and University of California, Davis

A much-needed, wide-ranging, and occasionally polemical counterpunch to received wisdom on everything from the rise of pale lager to the spread of craft beer, and the movements, social, economic, political, and technological, that drove developments in beer and brewing over the centuries. Hopped Up will be essential reading for anyone wanting to understand the contemporary global beer scene and how we arrived where we are today.

—Martyn Cornell, Author of Around the World in 80 Beers

Hopped Up is packed full of fascinating facts, from the origins of brewing to the rivalries that shaped British industrial beer brewing to the meaning behind the label 'Pilsner.' The stories in Hopped Up illustrate how, time and again, these kinds of interactions between brewers, regulators, and consumers have helped to create new beer cultures.

—Foreign Policy

乙醇——尤其是啤酒——从端淑开始就处于东说念主类端淑的中枢位置。这本既真谛真谛又残害启发性的文章以啤酒为刚劲的透镜，透视了近几个世纪的各式历史趋势，非凡是寰球化过头反弹。强烈推选。

——爱德华·斯林格兰德，《醉了：咱们怎么啜饮、跳舞，蹒跚着走向端淑》作家

杰弗里·皮尔彻提醒读者伸开了一场环球百科式的啤酒之旅，横跨数个世纪。即使你以为我方"了解"啤酒，也很可能在每一页皆能发现惊喜。这是一部极品。

——莫琳·奥格尔，《自利自为的酿造：好意思国啤酒史》作家

八成与地球端淑史联袂同业的产物三三两两。啤酒因此独具特点。八成令东说念主坚信且泰斗地胪陈啤酒和酿造业从古代豪阔月牙地区到现时巨变期间复杂啤酒贸易演变的作家也历历。皮尔彻的文章是一次进击破裂。

——查理·班福想，内华达山脉啤酒公司高档质料参谋人，加州大学戴维斯分校

这是一部急需且视线精深的文章，它对从浅色拉格啤酒的兴起到精酿啤酒的传播，以及数世纪以来鼓励啤酒与酿造业发展的社会、经济、政事和本事灵通等一切既有领路提议了偶有争议的有劲反驳。《跃动的啤酒》关于任何想能力会现代寰球啤酒样式过头变成历程的东说念主来说皆是必读之作。

——马丁·科内尔，《环游宇宙品80种啤酒》作家

《跃动的啤酒》充满别有洞天的史实，从酿造的发祥到塑造英国工业啤酒酿造的竞争，再到"皮尔森"标签背后的含义。书中的故事展示了酿酒商、监管者和销耗者之间的这些互动怎么一次又一次地匡助创造新的啤酒文化。

——《应付策略》

03.

作家简介

Jeffrey M. Pilcher is Professor of History and Food Studies at the University of Toronto. He is the author and editor of numerous books, including Planet Taco: The Global History of Mexican Food (OUP 2012), The Oxford Handbook of Food History (OUP 2012), and Food in World History.

杰弗里·M·皮尔彻是多伦多大学历史学和食物筹谋熏陶。他著有和主编多部文章，包括《星球玉米饼：墨西哥食物的寰球史》（牛津大学出书社尊龙体育网，2012年）、《牛津食物史手册》（牛津大学出书社，2012年）和《宇宙历史中的食物》。